THERE was a time, back in the mid-70′s, when the tiny island of Contadora was an ”in” place, the kind of trendy tourist mecca that Panama is now desperately eager to recreate. Hollywood stars and international jet-setters — John Wayne and Christian Dior among others — visited. An international treaty was signed there. In 1979, the shah of Iran lived for a few months in a private villa on this small paradise in the Pacific Ocean, some 40 miles off the coast from Panama City.
These days, Panama is looking inland, along the once off-limits Canal Zone, as it makes its bid for foreign tourists. Its latest attraction is the Gamboa Rainforest Resort, a stunning $30 million hotel on the banks of the Chagres River that offers eco-tourism with 24-hour room service, a very 21st-century mix of self-indulgence with a nature-friendly touch.
For a New Year’s holiday, a group of us — two families, with two adults and two children each — set off to try out Panama’s tourist destinations, old and new. After a five-hour flight from Newark International Airport, we arrived late at night in Panama City and by the next afternoon we were on a small plane, taking the 20-minute flight across the Pacific to Contadora.
The island is still largely unspoiled, although in truth, there isn’t much to it. It is all of half a square mile, big enough for several dozen villas (more are being built), a school, a church, a ”supermarket,” several boutiques, a cafe, a disco, a few bed-and-breakfasts and two hotels. Both hotels are perched on the northern end of the island, near the airstrip.
The island’s attractions can’t be explained by what is on it but by what is around it: clear calm turquoise waters that lap up onto smooth white beaches, a combination usually associated with the Caribbean and rarely found along Central America’s Pacific Coast. The Pacific has big tides and on Contadora, low tide is a dramatic sight, tripling the size of beaches and turning rocky shorelines into steep cliffs.
The shallow waters are ideal for young children. Older children will want to wait for high tide to get on one of the Jet Skis available for rent at the hotel beaches. Our best afternoon was spent on a two-masted sailboat hired through Las Perlas Sailing, which is run by a French couple. (They also offer other tours, including a spin on a banana-shaped tube pulled by a Jet Ski for $15 a child).
At a cost of $35 per adult, $20 per child, we set off with a three-member crew who took us to some of the outlying islands in the Las Perlas Archipiélago, our eyes peeled for possible dolphin or even whale sightings. Altogether the archipelago has 220 islands, but only a dozen are occupied. One, San José, was recently depopulated abruptly while the United States began to clean up chemical waste left there during World War II.
The guidebooks told us that the snorkeling would be good, and on our stop near one uninhabited island, we found that to be true. We saw large blue parrotfish and other fishes of various stripes and colors. What we didn’t see were the ”golden hair” jellyfish, which are virtually invisible but can be felt as they brush against your skin, leaving a rash that itches intensely for 10 minutes or so. And we never did see dolphins or whales.
Other excursions are possible — for instance, in a glass-bottomed boat that charges $15 a person per hour, but that we never did try out. Another outing we didn’t try was parasailing. There was also a local fisherman who picked up the enthusiasts among us in a motorized dinghy early one morning, and returned them three hours later with three fish (one caught using a wrench, rather than a lead weight, on the line). Another fisherman promised to pick up a slightly less enthusiastic group at dawn on another day and then failed to show up, leaving us to watch the pelicans rise to meet the sun.
There are several beaches on the island, some of which are most easily reached by boat. But the best is Playa Larga, which stretches out on both sides of the Hotel Contadora and ends in a point of land where pelicans like to roost.
In the old days this 350-room hotel, with its dozen buildings, green lawns, tennis courts, two swimming pools and a nine-hole golf course, was the center of the island’s buzzing social life, and the clue to its international reputation.
But the Hotel Contadora’s glory days are long over, and that is putting it kindly. The main restaurant, where waiters used to stand four deep to serve an elegant clientele, is now open for institutional-type buffet service: the one exception was a varied breakfast that quickly became our favorite meal of the day. Evening entertainment is provided by the hotel staff, which puts on ribald skits in both English and Spanish, and leads the guests in overamplified shouting.
There were other deficiencies — a periodic lack of hot water, sudden flooding, missing toilet seats and most remarkably, over the New Year’s holiday, no telephones except for two public phones — one in the front lobby, beneath the dusty skeleton of a fish, the other behind a door marked ”for staff only.”
The point is that the Hotel Contadora is unapologetically bad, although it must be said parenthetically, it is also cheap: at $150 a night per couple, everything included, which, besides meals and carefully controlled access to beach towels, means ”unlimited national drink” (as it turned out, this was alcohol in gallon jugs and wine in wax cartons, served up in white plastic glasses). The champagne ran out years ago.
Luckily, there is a decent hotel on Contadora, which just opened in September. The Hotel Punta Galeon is owned by one of the two partners in the Hotel Contadora, but the contrast couldn’t be more stark. Unlike its sprawling neighbor, the Punta Galeon, with 48 rooms, is very compact. It was built almost at treetop level on a rocky point of land, with a series of wraparound terraces that provide various stunning sea views.
THE rooms are small, simple and whitewashed, with built-in beds and bedside tables and little balconies attached. The bathrooms (showers only) are attractive and clean, and the water takes only minutes (as opposed to days) to warm up. And the telephones work.
Still, this is a hotel best suited to adults: there are good places to read, and not many to run around. The swimming pool is right next to the outdoor bar and restaurant, and thus not too tolerant of shouting and splashing. (At the Contadora, the opposite is true: no matter how loud your children, they will not be heard over the hard-core Caribbean rock ‘n’ roll played over the loudspeakers.)
The two restaurants at the Punta Galeon are à la carte, one outside for lunch, and one indoors and open only in the evenings. A lunch costs about $20 (for sandwiches, salads, chicken-in-the-basket sort of fare), while dinner, which could include sea bass grilled, fried or, more colorfully, ”run over by flour and eggs” as well as lobster and shrimp, could run as high as $50 to $60 a head, including wine.
The best restaurant on the island lies between the two hotels, up a slight hill. Called Gerald’s, it has good fish, good meat (amazing for an island) and some German dishes, and the service is swift. A New Year’s Eve meal for a family of four came to $110, including drinks. For dessert, the Café Angelina, on the other side of the airstrip, is recommended for very good Italian ice cream.
The Punta Galeon’s beach is smaller than the Playa Larga and a lot more public. Not only do the planes fly overhead but this is also where the island’s occasional ferry docks, picking up passengers right off the shore.
Ferry is rather a grand word for the Soviet-made hydofoil that makes the two-hour trip from Balboa, the port that marks the Pacific entrance to the Panama Canal. We happened upon this rather incongruous vessel (which began life as part of the Soviet river fleet) almost by accident, after we decided to leave the island a day early. However, since the fare for the boat and the plane are virtually identical — $56 for a round trip, it is advisable to stick to the plane, which is more predictable and quicker.
With our extra day, we were able to spend more time at the Gamboa, which was the exact opposite of the Contadora. In the heart of what was once the Panama Canal Zone, where the River Chagres flows into Lake Gatún, this 110-room hotel provided both total luxury and total quiet. The main building has gigantic three-story windows that look over an exotic landscape that could be out of Africa, with a savannalike park set against a river bounded by tropical forests.
Each one of the hotel’s rooms has the same view, best seen from the hammock that hangs on each of the balconies. Down at the bottom of the garden is a giant attractive pool that is fed by a waterfall and also looks onto the river valley view.
Besides a marina with its waterfront restaurant and its own spa, the resort offers a number of excursions that justify its eco-status. They include a sunrise birding tour, an evening wildlife boat tour, a ride on an aerial tram that provides a treetop view of the rain forest, a hike up a trail used by the conquistadors, sports fishing on Lake Gatún and kayaking on the Chagres. Most of these excursions cost at least $50 for an adult, which can quickly add up.
The resort is built in an area that was once the headquarters for the canal’s dredging operations. The old buildings, built in the 1930′s and once used for the American staff, have been converted into apartments, 45 one-bedroom and 20 two-bedrooms. These were largely empty when we were there, giving the whole place a strange aura of an abandoned colonial plantation.
The canal itself is perhaps the most intriguing, and certainly a unique, part of any visit to Panama. Leaving aside the awesome engineering feat and the sight of container ships the size of a midtown Manhattan block, a journey through the old zone — once off limits to ordinary Panamanians — is an excursion into a part of United States history that many of us have forgotten.
Island and mainland havens
To call Panama, dial 011, then the 507 country code.
Contadora
The island is an 18-minute plane ride from the Marcos A. Gelabert Airport in Panama City on either Las Perlas Airlines, (507) 315-7500 in Panama City, (507) 250-4026 on Contadora, or Aviatur, (507) 315-0311 in Panama City, (507) 250-4192 on Contadora. Island information: www.isla-contadora.com.
At the Hotel Punta Galeon, (507) 214-3719, fax (507) 214-3721, www.puntagaleon.com, a double is $127 a night, plus 10 percent tax.
Villa Romántica, (507) 250-4067, www
.contadora-villa-romantica.com, offers six air-conditioned rooms on the sea; at the restaurant, guests are invited to cook for themselves on hot stones or in fondue pots. Rooms range from $80 to $100.
Restaurant Gerald’s, on a hill above the Hotel Contadora; (507) 250-4061. A meal for two, with wine, costs approximately $40.
Gamboa
At the Gamboa Rainforest Resort, (507) 314-9000, fax (507) 214-1694; www.gamboa resort.com, a double costs $175 plus tax,
but there are a number of package deals that include transportation from the airport, excursions or treatment at the in-house
spa.
The drive from the Tocumen International Airport takes about an hour.
Email us at The Panama Club
+507-836-6542 / 43 (Panama) | 1-(305)-503-9957 (USA)
THERE were no taxis when my plane landed on a Saturday afternoon in the town of Bocas del Toro, Panama. I hung around the terminal for a few minutes, then strapped on my backpack and started walking. Twenty paces later, fat raindrops began falling and I scurried under the wooden eaves of a tiny refreshment shack.
”Where are you staying? La Veranda?” asked the woman at the counter, in an English that had a heavy West Indian accent. ”Well that’s right over there,”
She pointed out a blue house, just on the other side of the small dirt runway, and I headed that way. The rain, and the urgency of settling into a dry place with my gear, had distracted me so much that it took me another 20 paces for it to register — I’d just had a conversation in English (West Indian-style) in Panama.
The Bocas del Toro Archipelago, on the Caribbean coast of western Panama, is a tiny enclave of English-speaking Afro-Antilleans in a Spanish country. History, politics and labor migrations have created a handful of these colonias, as they’re called, all along Central America’s east coast — Nicaragua and Honduras, for example, have the Garifunas, and there are Afro-West Indian communities in Limón, Costa Rica; Colón, Panama, and on the tiny Colombian islands of San Andrés and Providencia.
The colonia in Bocas Town, on Colón Island, came about because the United Fruit Company built a headquarters here around the turn of the century. The company hired Caribbean migrants, mainly from Jamaica, to work banana plantations. When United Fruit moved to the Panamanian mainland some years later, the Caribbean workers stayed on the islands, settling in to fish, farm and trade.
More than 100 years later, Bocas Town still feels like an abandoned company outpost. Walking quickly along dirt streets, I noticed that the houses were mostly wooden two-story cottages with identical silhouettes: wide porches; framed, shuttered windows; and, occasionally, wood gingerbread trim. Many appeared on the verge of collapse, others were well-maintained and boldly painted — red with green, yellow with blue. Laughter, music (gospel and B. B. King), and the sputter of old car engines being tinkered with drifted through the air — the sounds of Saturday on any small Caribbean island.
While I was intrigued by Bocas’s unusual past, I had other reasons for including it in my trip to Panama last January. With 9 islands, 51 keys and more than 200 islets spread across the lagoon of Chiriquí, the Bocas del Toro Archipelago is like a mini-Caribbean off Panama’s coast. But it gets a fraction of the Caribbean’s tourist traffic, and there are no resorts or big hotels on the islands, only small inexpensive guest houses. A national marine park in the lagoon, on the nearby island of Bastimentos, protects the archipelago’s nearly pristine reef for snorkelers and divers.
Shivering under a thin blanket on my last night in Panama’s mountains, I dreamed about swimming in blue-green waters, lying on empty beaches and snorkeling with the equipment I’d lugged from New York.
Bocas Town, the provincial capital on Colón, the archipelago’s main island, didn’t have much of a beach (the public beach there fronts on the ominously named Bahia Sand Fly), but it is where most travelers go because of its central location. From there I could rent little boats to take me on short day trips to the marine park, 20 minutes away, and to uninhabited islands.
By the time I reached La Veranda guest house, the rain had slacked to a gentle drizzle. I’d found La Veranda in a roundabout way. When I called a nearby guest house, Cocomo on the Sea, it was full. I asked the friendly sounding American owner if she could recommend something, and she suggested La Veranda, which wasn’t in either of my guidebooks (both had been published before it opened two years ago). I liked the name, picturing a house with a big, cozy porch. On this instinct alone, I called the day before I arrived in Bocas Town and booked a single with bath for $25.
Not knowing what to expect, I realized after I walked up the old wooden stairs to the big second-story porch that I’d stumbled upon a rare find — a cheap guest house with terrific style. Heather Guidi, a former nurse from British Columbia who bought and restored the house, had turned it into a funky Caribbean fantasy of blue, yellow, purple and sea-green walls, original wood plank floors, ceiling fans and gingerbread trim. In my room were many things that pleased me — thrift shop mirrors, a billowy white mosquito net, handmade chairs painted turquoise, and, beside the queen bed, a lamp that made me laugh with its shade speckled with tiny sea shells.
The large veranda had an antique sofa and comfy wicker chairs with batik cushions. There was a kitchen at one end, with a big refrigerator, a stove and a sink. ”You’re welcome to use it,” Heather said, and told me the grocery was two blocks away.
Lounging on the couch and chairs were three of my fellow guests, two blond crewcut men, and an earnest blond woman, in their 20′s. One young man was working on a computer, the second was cleaning the sink; the woman was reading the Bible. They were freelance missionaries from Colorado, on a break between projects in Central America.
I found this out because shortly after I unpacked, the rain came back, this time in exuberant waves, sheet after tropical sheet. There was little to do but sit on the veranda, chat and wait for a break in the clouds. A brief one did come, and I ran down the street to the grocery store, the ”Epicenter of Savings,” for coffee, milk, water, bread and cheese. On my way back, drops began to trickle down again. I scurried up the stairs as thunder began to roll.
It was not the rainy season, Heather said. In fact, it was the time of year that is supposed to have the lightest rainfall. This made me hopeful that tomorrow would be sunny. My mood lifted, and when the missionaries invited me out for a beer, I joined them.
The next morning, the sky was gray, but there were some breaks in the clouds that encouraged optimism. After fixing coffee and eating some fruit, I walked down Bocas Town’s main road to the town center in about 10 minutes. Along the harbor was a road lined with fishermen’s bars, dive shops and places that arranged boat excursions. I got as far as asking about a snorkel expedition when the gray clouds turned black again, and I headed back to the guest house pronto.
But the rain caught me in the middle of Calle 3, Bocas Town’s main street. I jumped onto a creaky wooden porch where an elderly man sat silently, watching the nearly-empty street. He’d caught my eye because his house listed about 30 degrees to the left and appeared to be only moments from collapse, and because he looked like a member of the Buena Vista Social Club, distinguished in a starched white guayabera. In an Afro-Antillean town, the man stood out, a reminder of Hispanic Panama.
His name was Don Mario, and when I introduced myself, he immediately got up and went back into his house. I heard some scraping and banging, and he emerged holding an old steel folding chair.
Rain pounded, I sat, and Don Mario entertained me with episodes from his 83 years, beginning with the time he ran off, in his 20′s, to Havana. ”Oh, mi amiguita, what a time it was!” he said, his eyes clouding wistfully. ”I danced in the clubs, I heard all the great musicians, saw the great comedians — it was the best time of my life.” More stories emerged, of his travels around South America on a merchant marine vessel, his adventures in Panama City during World War II. He did not explain in detail how he’d ended up as a tailor in Bocas Town, but I did find out what made his house tipsy: an earthquake in Bocas about 10 years ago. In any event, explained Don Mario, it would be torn down soon, for, like many Bocas old-timers, he was selling his property to an investor who would probably put up a little hotel, or a restaurant, to join the others now popping up along Calle 3.
After my conversation with Don Mario, I drifted along the main street, noticing now how tourism was reshaping the sleepy little backwater. There were three or four restaurants with Italian names and owners, and the clatter of hammers announced renovation and new construction. Over a terrific, simple lunch of fish and rice at Restaurante Kuna, run by Kuna Indians from eastern Panama, I overheard Latin men with mustaches speaking rapidly into cell phones, while their gringo lunch companions questioned them, in bad but enthusiastic Spanish, about real estate opportunities.
I realized I’d arrived in Bocas Town at that pause before the tourism machinery kicks in, before the friendly smiles of the locals turn into professional grins (or irritated masks). Suddenly, I didn’t really care if I ever used that snorkel here.
The rains continued to pass over La Veranda. Between downpours, I walked in the neighborhood, met the neighbors and explored the little piers that jutted out from the light brown crescent-shaped beach opposite Sand Fly Bay (which, happily, didn’t live up to its name). On one old wooden pier, a group of children sang me Spanish pop songs, spoke to me in the local English patois, and showed me how to fish with a plastic line.
And then, one afternoon, the sun appeared, and I ran down to the central docks. Suddenly, everything was in color: green sea, blue sky, little red and white boats. It was now or never — I hired a small boat (a bote) to ferry me across the bay to Isla Bastimentos (for $1), the next largest island in the archipelago, and home to an Afro-Antillean community that was preparing for a big carnival. (I had been eagerly reading the posters that announced the parades.)
In a tiny wooden vessel that had been carved, Indian style, from a single piece of wood, I set out with two boatmen, one talkative, the other strangely silent. Suddenly, about five minutes out to sea, the wind kicked up, sending the little craft slamming down with a loud thump. The silent boatman didn’t even flinch.
”Don’t worry,” said the chatty boatman. ”He’s deaf.”
”Deaf?”
”He can’t speak, either. We’re a team — he drives, and I talk.”
We put in at Isla Bastimentos, and I noticed there weren’t any other taxi boats. So I asked the partner to wait while I explored the island for around 30 minutes. I offered him an extra dollar, and he said O.K. Seconds after I turned my back, I heard the motor sputtering; the boat turned around and sped across the bay back to town.
Isla Bastimentos has one main street, about a half-mile long. At one end, women were playing drums and chanting and clapping carnival songs. At the other was an open-air bar jutting into the harbor. It was old and funky, with missing floorboards and a strong smell of rum and sea salt. Only after I walked in did I notice that the only other woman in the place was the bartender.
Soca music pounded and echoed across the empty dance floor, and so did my heart. Was I stranded? Had I taken enough cash in case I had to spend the night? Worst of all, the sky was turning into a gray soup again. My face must have telegraphed my panic because moments later, one fisherman had bought me a beer and another had gone to look for his neighbor. ”Yuh no worry,” said the neighbor in patois, ”I can take you back in my boat.”
The rain held off until just before we pulled into Bocas Town harbor. Then the sky burst, all at once, and the showers came down, thick, warm and comforting.
The bottom line: an island enclave
I spent $38.62 a day on food, hotel and transport during four days and nights in Bocas del Toro. Prices are in United States dollars, which are widely used in Panama. The international dialing code for Panama is 507.
Transportation
From David, in southwestern Panama, I flew to Bocas del Toro for $24. My flight back to Panama City cost $49.35. Both were on Aeroperlas, Panama’s main domestic airline; (507) 757 9341, on the Web at www.aeroperlas.com.
My guest house, La Veranda, was a five-minute walk from the airport. Water taxis, which leave from the main dock by the harbor, charge about $1 for the 15-minute ride to Isla Bastimentos. Boat owners congregate at the pier, offering various excursions; I would have gone on a four-hour snorkel trip to nearby Hospital Point if it had ever stopped raining. The price I negotiated was $8.
Street addresses are not commonly used in tiny Bocas Town; the streets, arranged in a grid, have numbers or letters. Most hotels and restaurants are on or near Calle 3, the main drag, which can be walked from end to end in 15 minutes. The airport is near the center of town.
Places to Stay
The four-room Veranda guest house, telephone and fax (507) 757 9211, www.laverandahotel.com, had a sense of personal style that is rare in budget lodgings. Rates are now $35 a night, but my large room cost $25 a night and had its own bathroom with a shower, a queen bed, and lots of shelves and pegs for hanging and storage. La Veranda doesn’t serve breakfast, but the guest rooms open to a large, airy veranda with couches, a dining table, chairs and a communal kitchen. Perhaps the only drawback is that it is two blocks away from the sea (guests have access to the hotel’s swimming dock).
If a sea view is a priority, I’d recommend the nearby Cocomo on the Sea guest house, (507) 757 9259, www.panamainfo.com/cocomo, a more upscale, more conventional place with an inviting deck overlooking the water, and four rooms, which I couldn’t inspect because they were full when I visited. Rooms cost around $50, with breakfast.
A budget standby is Las Brisas Botel, (507) 757 9248, where a rather drab, dingy room without windows is about $25 a night. The draw of the place is its spacious breezy deck overlooking the water.
Where to Eat
La Ballena, (507) 757 9089, is an Italian-owned restaurant on Avenida E one block off Calle 3. It’s upscale for Bocas Town — dinner entrees are $9 to $12 — but the portions are huge. My meal of tomato and mozzarella salad, followed by spaghetti with octopus sauce, could have fed two. The bill was $18 with a glass of surprisingly good house wine.
Kuna is an unpretentious restaurant across from Las Brisas Botel. Seafood dinner entrees (around $7) are served on a wide, breezy porch overlooking the main street. I had very good shrimp and calamari in garlic sauce, and returned the next night for grilled red snapper. There is no phone. DAISANN McLANE
Email us at The Panama Club
+507-836-6542 / 43 (Panama) | 1-(305)-503-9957 (USA)
Be prepared for a shocker when you get to Panama, especially if you are coming from one of the Central American neighbours. Bars in Panama are much more cosmopolitan than the bars in, say Guatemala or Nicaragua. You will find a tremendous variety in the types of music, drink prices, and crowds.
If you are just looking to unwind, grab a beer, and call it a night around 10 then Panama may not be the place for you. There aren’t a ton of sidewalk cafés that feature outdoor or patio dining, but a handful exist in places like Casco Viejo or El Cangrejo. Even the Bella Vista and Calle Uruguay area has a handful of spots. Habibis is an obvious choice for outdoor lounging, and Sahara is another good place to go for a cool drink outside. In Casco Viejo, one can find a number of places like Brazios. La Terraza was a popular gringo hangout, but with the exit of ¨dirty Mike¨, the Panama bar’s fabled owner, the place has lost its distinctive feel. You can still get a cold beer at this famous gringo watering hole, located on Via Venetto.
Bars in Panama usually get cranking around 10 or 11pm, and one of the best bars to begin the night is the new Londoner Bar located on Calle Uruguay. They have happy hour, billiards, and a good looking and distinctively British menu. British memorabilia line the bar, British and Scottish ales are available, and football is almost always on the tele. Another good bar in Panama is Crème. An upscale lounge type bar that features some great mixed drinks and the most comfortable couches in the country, Crème is a must visit for the business traveler and the backpacker alike. Located next to Farmacia Arrocha, this bar turns into a very hip club after 11pm. The appetizers are top notch, and the drinks wont cost you an arm and a leg.
For a complete list of bars in Panama, I usually go to buscapanama.net. I think this site is maintained by an American living down there, and it seems like they do a pretty good job of keeping up with the trends. The site differentiates between bars and clubs, which is important because the two tend to attract different crowds. Another good thing about buscapanama is that they feature pictures of people at the bar. Another good panama bar website is dealante.com, but that one is in all Spanish. It’s a great place to see all of the good looking crowds.
The thing about Panama bars is that one week they’ll be all the rage and the next week they’ll be dead. People in Panama love their bars, and following the trends can be a full time job. Bars in Panama run a ton of specials, and from the looks of it the busca panama site has a list of specials as well. Most bars here don’t close until late, so there is always an opportunity to grab a drink well into the wee hours.
The variety of bars in Panama is tremendous, and they are concentrated in a number of different areas. The primary bar hopping areas are Calle Uruguay, Area Bancaria, and Amador Causeway. The financial district, or area bancaria, is quickly becoming one of the hottest places for bars in panama. Bars like El Pavo Real, Koppas, Crème, Lighthouse, and Voila are all located in this new trendy area. It is the closest area to walk to if travellers are staying in the El Cangrejo or Bella Vista areas, and it is very safe at all hours of the night. The causeway is a bit far away, and bars are spread out. Calle Uruguay has the highest concentration of bars, and they run the gambit from dive bar to swanky club.
Either way, there is definitely something for everyone!
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Kent Preiss-Davis has been dreaming about Panama since he was a boy, and finally made it out to the beautiful country which he now calls home. He has taken on the arduous task of reviewing every bar, club, and brothel in Panama City, Panama. A weekend wasted is never a wasted weekend. |
Email us at The Panama Club
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The restaurant scene in Casco Antiguo, Panama offers some of the finest and most innovative cuisine in the entire country. From shee-shee prefix menus to simple outdoor cafes, there is something for almost everyone behind these walls.
Where else in Panama can you sit beneath hundred year old stone walls or beside historically-preserved monuments? Where can you go out for a night of theater and a glass tangy ocean-side sangria? The emerging restaurant scene in Casco Antiguo, though already firmly established, is making hefty strides in the nation’s culinary marketplace.
Casco Antiguo is not for everyone. The preconstruction condos in the city and sprawling beach resorts on the Pacific Coast are for the masses. If you’re looking for everyday vacation—the kind of place that might exist on just about any tropical coast—then this may not be the place for you.
But think about quaint plazas in Europe? Think about beautifully-aged balconies and droopy bougainvilleas. Think about Cuba, think about Cartagena, think about New Orleans (minus the girls gone wild).
Casco Antiguo might be Panama’s most unique nook: a neighborhood with almost no middle-of-the-road travel characteristics left in its tank. This is a place for romantic travelers and investors to whom the twinkle of all-inclusive resorts, and the sheen of loft high rises is anything but extraordinary.
Get on a double-decker tour bus if you want. Eat at the tourist restaurants and shop in the tourist malls: the same places you’ve been vacations year after year. Those who find their way to Casco Antiguo though, are ones who will not forget.
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Matt Landau is the modern day equivalent to a travel dimwit. His articles on Casco Viejo and rants on Panama apartments for rent have appeared in no major news publications and after several years of dedicating himself to the industry, he now resides in a small hut companioned only by something that resembles an overgrown hedgehog. |
Email us at The Panama Club
+507-836-6542 / 43 (Panama) | 1-(305)-503-9957 (USA)
So you’re planning your next vacation getaway to the Caribbean and you’re thinking about what kind of things you want to do in this beautiful part of the world. Laying out and soaking up some sun all day? Watching a gorgeous island sunset? How about snoozing the day away in a hammock? If this sounds like a waste of vacation time to you, and you want to spend your Caribbean experience enjoying more active pursuits, then have no fear; many of the Caribbean Islands offer more than just a day at the beach and picturesque sunsets.
Those travelers who are more into adventurous and active endeavors while visiting the Caribbean can spend your days with plenty of exciting activities. Try the popular sports of tennis and golf if you enjoy a little friendly competition. There are watersports and underwater exploration for those who want to get their feet wet. And nature-friendly eco-oriented endeavors allow you to become one with the great outdoors. All you have to do is decide which activity interests you the most, and you’re ready for all kinds of adventures during your visit to the beautiful and exciting Caribbean.
Caribbean Sports
A lot of hotels and resorts in the Caribbean have packages especially for tennis and golf players to accommodate sports-minded travelers. A lot of the major resorts in the region have tennis courts on location that are available to their guests and by reservations for those who aren’t staying at the hotel. A lot of the time hotels with tennis courts will offer tennis instruction for various fees, so even if you’re a beginner player, you can still enjoy some great tennis action on your vacation in the Caribbean.
If you happen to be in the Caribbean at just the right time, or if you plan a little bit in advance, you may be able to catch a professional tennis tournament during your stay. If you want to spend the daytime hours relaxing and soaking up some sun, a lot of hotels have lighted courts, so you can hit the courts at night, which may also be more comfortable than playing in the hot Caribbean sun. Keep in mind that you may have to pay a little extra for the luxury of lighting.
In order to guarantee that you get some much-coveted court time in the Caribbean, contact your hotel or other resorts near where you’ll be staying to see if they have courts available, if the courts are illuminated, and how much it costs to play. There are several islands in the Caribbean where vacationers can go to find great tennis courts and facilities, including the Dominican Republic, Aruba, Puerto Rico, and Jamaica, which feature resorts that provide special tennis packages and top-notch facilities.
Golf is also a popular sport for many people visiting to the Caribbean. Golf can be a laid-back and relaxing outing, as well as provide some exciting competition. The beautiful tropical weather in the Caribbean is just right for enjoying a game of golf almost any time of year, and many of the region’s courses are located in beautiful breathtaking settings among majestic mountains and tropical greenery. Vacationers can find great golf courses throughout the Caribbean, but especially on the larger islands. The majority of courses are available to visitors and offer equipment for rental as well as golf lessons for various fees. The expenses of golfing on particular greens will vary from course to course, and can range from extremely pricey to budget play, so check ahead with the course or golf resort.
Golf players can find courses in the Caribbean that were designed by world renowned golfers and expert course designers. You can find exciting golf courses and golf resorts on many Caribbean islands with some of the best being in the Bahamas, Puerto Rico, Jamaica, and the Dominican Republic.
Making Waves
During your visit to the Caribbean, you’ll be surrounded by the amazing sapphire waters of the Caribbean Sea and sparkling Atlantic Ocean, so you’ll have access to a wide variety of watersports and other aquatic endeavors, like snorkeling, scuba diving, and fishing, just to name a few.
People from around the world come to the Caribbean to enjoy its offshore activities in the region’s warm, clear, blue waters. Beneath the calm surface of the Caribbean waters is a wondrous world of colorful and exotic ocean wildlife including brilliant fish and coral. Because of its fascinating underwater habitats, the Caribbean features some of the most popular dive destinations in the world, and is home to various resorts and hotels that focus especially on the diving aspect of visiting the Caribbean by offering special dive package.
Dive resorts and many hotels offer their guests equipment rental for scuba diving and snorkeling, and even provide scuba diving lessons and certification, because you must have a license and some instruction in order to get the most out of your diving experience.
Volcanic vents, Coral reefs, old shipwrecks, as well as other underwater formations make great places for scuba divers to explore, and can be an unforgettable experience for vacationers of all ages. The cost of your dive or snorkeling excursion will vary according to the kind of dive you take, when you go, and what kind of certification you want to get. Travelers can find great dive spots all over the Caribbean, but especially on the Cayman and Virgin Islands.
Other water-based pursuits that vacationers can enjoy while vacationing in the Caribbean include fantastic watersports like fishing which is a popular activity for many who visit the Caribbean, which has a countless number of fish species dwelling beneath the surface of the crystal blue waters. In recent years, windsurfing has become an extremely popular watersport in the region. Also, there is kayaking, parasailing, water rafting, and many other ways to enjoy the waves of the salty Caribbean.
Ecological Activities
For a lot of travelers, a trip to the Caribbean is the perfect chance to get back to nature. Several islands in the region boast lush landscapes and are home to a variety of exotic animal species. Travelers who are more ecologically aware can experience nature in the Caribbean in a number of ways, such as through hiking, camping, and mountain biking. To find out more information about outdoor excursions and nature-related activities, the best place to start is your hotel information desk, which may be able to provide you with maps of the island, the names and numbers of rental companies where you can get camping equipment and mountain bikes, and information on local guides that you can hire to show you around island trails.
Hiking is good exercise and can be a great way to see parts of islands that can’t be reached by car. Hikers can pick from a few different levels of hiking difficulty, from leisurely strolls to brisk uphill hikes and more strenuous treks. Mountain biking is also another way to get off the beaten path and see areas of the island you couldn’t see by staying in the city limits. Take a trip up the side of a volcano, visit a cascading waterfall, or do some exotic birdwatching. In the Caribbean the ecological possibilities are endless.
If you want your vacation to be an active and exciting one while in Caribbean, you won’t be at a loss for things to do in this amazing region of the world, which is rich in various sports and activities. You’re sure to have a memorable experience while enjoying active pursuits in the Caribbean.
About The Author
Danielle Mitchell writes for http://Caribbean-Guide.info , http://Jamaica-Guide.info , and other Segisys travel Web sites. © 2005, Interactive Internet Websites, Inc. Article may only be reprinted if it is not modified in any way, and if all links remain live.
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2007 Special Early Opening Date: First of July (and not the 15th)
Between jungle and sea, Al Natural Resort has created for you a comfortable and private retreat, perfectly integrated into the lush tropical environment.

The resort elegantly combines the ancestral craftsmanship of the Ngobe-bugle indians with new technologies that allow us to harvest energy from the sun and limit our impact on the ecosystem.
The Bungalows
In order to provide each guest with maximum privacy, it is our goal to maintain an intimate scale for the resort, Al Natural is offering only six exclusive eco-bungalows, they are all on the beach with direct view to the water.
All the bungalows are stilt houses and provide occupants with uninterrupted views of the sea and surrounding flora and fauna. There are four levels of accommodation: Natural House, Superior Natural House, Two Story Superior Natural House and Three Bedroom Hexagonal Natural House.

Each NATURAL HOUSE is unique, and compose of a terrace, a complete private tiled bathroom with hot water shower, good lighting powered by a 12 volt solar powered electrical system, and one or two orthopedic Queen size beds with a custom made mosquitoes netting. Each bungalow is equipped with relax chairs, coffee table and a hammock. There are three Natural Houses to choose from: one NATURAL HOUSE, with one Queen size bed, one TWO STORY NATURAL HOUSE, with one orthopedic Queen size bed on each floor, (Please note that, in the upper room, fits just the Queen size bed and that the stairs to go up are a little bit steep), and one HEXAGONAL NATURAL HOUSE, with three separate bedrooms, two master bedrooms, with one Queen size bed in each, and one bedroom with two single beds or another kind size bed.
Each SUPERIOR NATURAL HOUSE provides the same comfort in a larger space with one or two orthopedic king size bed, one or two additional single beds, a wooden lounge chair, and a very efficient ceiling fan. We are offering two SUPERIORS NATURAL HOUSES, with one large bedroom with one king size bed and one or two single beds in each, and one TWO STORY SUPERIOR NATURAL HOUSE, with the master bedroom upstairs with an elevated kind size bed, and another separate bedroom, with two single beds or another king size bed, next to the bathroom downstairs.
TRAVEL INFORMATION
Many airlines fly to Tocumen International Airport (Panama City).
Flights to Bocas del Toro depart from the domestic airport Albrook, in Panama City.
Aeroperlas and Mapiex Aero operates a one-hour direct flights daily ($ 100.00 round trip).
Land travel alternative: buses operate between the cities of Panama and San José (Costa Rica) with the port of Almirante.
Confortable and fast water taxis connect the port of Almirante to Bocas del Toro, at Colon Island.
Reservations with Aeroperlas can be made at www.aeroperlas.com. We can recommend to you accommodations in Panama City.
OTHER INFORMATIONS
Languages: spanish and english
Currency: the Balboa has equivalent value to the American Dollar. The only paper currency in use is the American Dollar.
Electricity: 110 volts
Vaccination: None obligatory
Tropical climate: The weather is warm all year round (yearly average temperature 27°C/82°F).
The driest months are February, March, September and October.
The rainiest months are May, July, November and December.
Panama is outside of the hurricane belt.
Contact
(507) 6640-6935
alna...@cwpanama.net
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Many would be surprised to know that the Panama Canal runs north to south to link the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans, not east to west.By shortening the route and reducing the cost of transportation between the two oceans, the Panama Canal allows for lower-cost imported goods and commodities in many part of the world. (It saves almost 8,000 miles on a trip from New York to San Francisco.) By eliminating for the majority of shipping the treacherous route around the tip of Argentina, it has no doubt saved countless lives and millions of dollars in lost vessels. However, it is estimated to have cost some 30,000 lives in the two attempts – French and American – to build it between 1880 and 1914.Reducing the distance between the two oceans provides Panama with a major share of its gross domestic product. Some 13,500 ships transit the canal each year, almost 40 a day.Not commonly known is the fact that the two oceans have different sea levels, and different levels of high tide. At the entrance to the Panama Canal, the Pacific Ocean can rise as much as 20 feet, but 45 miles away, the difference between high tide and low in the Atlantic is just three feet.The longest part of the canal, sandwiched between gigantic sets of locks at either end, is manmade Gatun Lake and the Gaillard Cut.
Gaillard Cut actually rips through a low point in the mountain chain that runs all the way from Alaska to the tip of Argentina.The Panama Canal has six locks, three near either end. From the Pacific Ocean, near Panama City, the Miraflores Locks’ two chambers each raise vessels 27 feet. A short distance away, the Pedro Miguel Lock lifts shipping a further 31 feet. Most of the passage through the canal is at 85 feet above sea level.The Gaillard Cut is followed by the town of Gamboa, where the Chagres River enters the canal. Without the Chagres and the immense amount of water that flows from it, there could be no Panama Canal.The three steps of the Gatun Locks each lower ships about 28 feet, to the level of the Atlantic Ocean.The locks are gravity fed from the Chagres and Gatun Lake.
No pumps are needed. Water pours through a huge culvert in the center wall of each lock, a culvert so massive that a locomotive could pass through it. Other large culverts pass through the side walls. Water fills or empties through vents along the bottom of the locks, 26 million gallons in just eight minutes.Each lock chamber is 110 feet wide and 1,000 feet long, and each gate weighs 700 tons. When the Panama Canal was completed in 1914, the locks were large enough for the largest vessel in the world to pass through.
And since then, most marine architects have been careful to design hulls with the canal’s measurements in mind. That changed in 1934 when the Queen Mary was launched. She was 118.5 feet wide, but it didn’t matter: she was built for transatlantic service, like the Queen Elizabeth, launched a little later.But shipping economics call for ever larger loads. There has been talk for a number of years about widening the canal, one possibility being the construction of wider parallel locks beside the existing ones. One limiting factor could be the availability of water in greater volume.
Other options that have been discussed, including building a canal at sea level that would need no locks. One problem with this is the current that would be created because the oceans are at different levels.Another option that Panamanians don’t even want to think about is the original idea: to build a canal through Nicaragua.All naval vessels except aircraft carriers can squeeze through the Panama Canal, and do so without damage, though the occasional battleship loses some paint. The flight deck on aircraft carriers is angled to give greater runway length, and they cannot clear the canal. The world’s largest oil tankers cannot make it, either, and have to offload their cargoes to smaller vessels at terminals on either end.Apart from being the crossroads of the world’s shipping, the Panama Canal is a great attraction for tourists. There are daily cruises that ply either the whole length or part of it.
It’s an excellent way to view part of Panama’s history, past and present.To learn more about some of the interesting places to see in Panama, visit http://www.yourpanama.com/travel-to-panama.html.
Sydney Tremayne publishes http://www.yourpanama.com, a leading website for tourists and for potential ex-pat retirees in Panama. His team of experts gives regular Q&A teleseminars that can save costly mistakes. To find out more, go to http://www.yourpanama.com/fear.html
Email us at The Panama Club
+507-836-6542 / 43 (Panama) | 1-(305)-503-9957 (USA)
Canal digging dates back to the Ancient World, providing the means to move crops, building stones, and people. Wheeled transport, where it existed, was hobbled by poor road surfaces, and loads carried could not approach what a canal barge transported. One of the earliest canals, connecting the River Nile to the Gulf of Suez, dates to the reign of Ramses II in the 13th century B.C.
By the 18th century, Europe was heavily investing in canal building, substantially lowering the costs of moving heavy bulk items such as coal for making iron and clay for manufacturing bricks. England’s fine china industry took off when smooth canal transport almost eliminated the breakage previously prevalent on the rough roads. Canals joined navigable rivers, creating thousands of miles of interconnecting inland waterways, still used today by commercial traffic and large fleets of cruising riverboats, hotel, and charter barges.
In the United States, early 19th century canal construction in the East and Midwest linked the Hudson River, Great Lakes, and the Mississippi River system into thousands of miles of continuous water highways. When the railway era arrived, passenger traffic withered away; but by continually enlarging and deepening the principle canals, commercial traffic prospered. Today’s inland cruise lines, such as the Delta Queen Steamboat Company, RiverBarge Excursion Lines, American Canadian Caribbean Line, and Clipper Cruise Line, make significant use of these waterways.
Saltwater canals for ocean-going sailing ships were considered long before the technology existed to make them a reality. Then in the 19th and early 20th centuries, the fast steamships sailing on regular schedules
prompted numerous canal-building projects to expedite passenger and freight traffic. While the Cape Cod Canal might cut 135 miles off a trip from New York to Boston, the Panama and Suez canals could cut weeks off a long inter-ocean voyage.
The cruise industry uses saltwater canals for economy, convenience, and creative itineraries. In the case of the Panama Canal, a daytime transit may be the lure to choose to that cruise in the first place, while passing through the Kiel, Corinth, or Suez canals will provide a bonus on any itinerary.
Although a canal across the Isthmus of Panama had been contemplated long before its actual completion in 1914, it was the opening of the Suez Canal on November 17, 1869–a French construction project followed by British financial control–that revolutionized trade routes and passenger travel between Europe, Asia, and Australasia. Sea journeys from England to India previously made via South Africa’s often stormy Cape of Good Hope were shortened by nearly two weeks.
The 100-mile Suez Canal was dug through the Isthmus of Suez to connect the Mediterranean and Red seas: no locks were required, thus lowering the costs of construction and operation, and greatly reducing transit times. The Suez was nationalized by Egypt in November 1956 and closed for six months during a failed Anglo-French intervention. During the nasty Six-Day War between Egypt and Israel, the canal was blocked by sunken ships and closed to traffic from 1967 to 1975. Today, canal tolls form a highly lucrative source of revenue for Egypt, while for cruise lines the waterway provides many attractive port options.
Travelers find the scenery mostly arid desert, but the landscape does take on a lovely glow at both sunrise and sunset. But it’s the area’s fascinating geography, history, politics, and strife that come to mind during a Suez sailing. The southbound transit usually begins with a call at Port Said, the headquarters for the Suez Canal Authority. Egyptian canal pilots join here, and in the early morning the ship takes a place in a long convoy.
Most tonnage will be container vessels, bulk carriers, and generally empty tankers heading to the Persian Gulf to take on oil. A permissible draft of 62 feet and 210,000 dead-weight tons are the maximums, so the largest loaded supertankers from the Persian Gulf still must sail via South Africa. However, in terms of tonnage, the Suez still handles the largest volume of traffic of any canal, as 25,000 ships pass through annually, with transit times ranging between 11 and 16 hours. Lake Timsah and the Great Bitter Lake form the widest sections, and sometimes convoys will anchor here for a few hours before proceeding, as some stretches handle only one-way traffic. Then at Suez (Port Tewfik), the pilots debark, and the ship resumes normal cruising speeds into the Gulf of Suez and the Red Sea.
In Germany, the 61-mile Kiel Canal (officially Nord-Ostsee Kanal) slices through Schleswig-Holstein just south of the Danish border from the mouth of the River Elbe to the city of Kiel, shortening the distance between the North Sea and the Baltic Sea. Locks at each end minimize tidal variations. First completed in 1895 to allow the German navy to move between its strategic northern ports, the canal was further enlarged by 1914 to permit increasingly bigger ships to avoid the longer passage via the tip of Denmark and the Great Belt Route. At the post-World War I Treaty of Versailles in 1919, the canal was internationalized, though administered by Germany. In 1936 Hitler canceled the agreement; free navigation was reintroduced after World War ii. Today the Kiel Canal carries more ships than any other–41,682 in 2004.
A Kiel Canal transit is unique in its largely rural nature. On a Radisson Diamond cruise a few years ago, I could smell the manure from the bordering farms. Railway and highway bridges span the waterway, and several ferry crossings fill in the gaps between. An unusual transporter bridge (1913) uses a ferry-like gondola connected by cables to an overhead railway span to carry cars across the waterway so not to interrupt canal traffic.
The port of Amsterdam is accessed via the 15-mile North Sea Canal (or Amsterdam Ship Canal) providing a mildly interesting transit from the North Sea port of Ijmuiden through the Dutch countryside. When completed in 1876, the North Sea Canal made Amsterdam one of Europe’s great ports. While still important, the rival city of Rotterdam has long surpassed it in maritime traffic, although many cruise lines still prefer Amsterdam.
Locking operations include the Northern Lock, one of the largest chambers in the world at 1,312 feet by 492 feet. That explains why the locking operation takes so long, as pleasure craft and barges pass by using smaller, easier to fill/empty parallel locks. The arrival in Amsterdam is a treat as the ship passes the city center, river cruise and ferry docks, and the massive Central Station railway.
In Greece, as far back as 602 B.C., a Corinthian tyrant named Periander considered digging a canal to link the Adriatic and the Eastern Mediterranean, but it is said that the high priestess of the Delphic oracle dissuaded him. Roman emperor Nero tried and failed due to troubles at home. Finally the modern Greek state started construction in 1882, finishing the four-mile sea-level waterway nine years later, creating a most dramatic cut through the isthmus’s often solid rock. In the past, slides caused intermittent blockages, including a two-year closure in 1923 and then for five years when the retreating Germans dynamited the canal walls in 1944.
With a width of just 69 feet at a depth of 26 feet, only relatively small cruise ships can make the transit, which reduces the voyage from Piraeus to Venice by 130 nautical miles. Ships greater than 800 net tons must be towed, and the largest often have tugs tied to the bow and stern to avoid scrapping the uneven rock walls that rise as high as 259 feet. When approaching the eastern entrance though the Saronic Gulf, the view ahead looks impossibly narrow. The ship passes over sinking bridges and under 170-foot-high vehicular and railway spans linking mainland Greece with the Peloponnese. Tiny figures lining the road bridge look down from above. In the height of summer, the rock walls reflect a lot of heat, and it’s a huge relief to exit into the cooler Gulf of Corinth.
In North America, the seven-mile Cape Cod Canal connects New England’s Buzzards Bay and Cape Cod Bay, making the Cape Cod Peninsula an island of sorts and saving 135 miles for ships sailing up the East Coast bound for Boston. The idea for a canal here began as far back as in the 17th century with Miles Standish of the Plymouth Colony and was revived during the Revolutionary War to give American ships a safer passage, but nothing came of it. August Belmont, a New York financier, backed the canal, which opened July 29, 1914, but largely because of high tolls and restricted clearances, it soon became a money-losing venture. The government purchased the waterway in 1928 and the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers enlarged it for deep-sea ship transits by 1940.
The Cape Cod Canal is one of the world’s widest at 480 feet, with a depth of 32 fee[ at mean low water, and currents can run to 5.2 miles per hour. Ships up to 825 feet in length may pass, and clearance under the Sagamore and Bourne highway bridges and one railroad lift span is a standard 135 feet. Today about 20,000 ships and boats use the waterway, skewed very much toward pleasure craft. The few cruise ships that use the canal are generally on New England/Canada itineraries. At the Buzzards Bay entrance, the ship will pass the Massachusetts Maritime Academy and slide under the 1935-built vertical lift railroad bridge with its dramatic 271-foot steel towers and 544-foot horizontal span.
The 14-mile Chesapeake and Delaware Canal, slicing through the states of Delaware and Maryland, is aptly named as it connects the Delaware River to the Chesapeake Bay. Besides pleasure craft and coastal cruise ships traveling the Intracoastal Waterway, 40 percent of all deep-sea ships using the Port of Baltimore transit the canal as it provides a short cut from New York and Philadelphia.
Digging started in 1804, but the C&D was not completed until 1829. The original canal had locks and a 10-foot depth; eventually it was greatly enlarged to handle modern steamships. The U.S. Army Corps of Engineers eliminated the locks and expanded the waterway to a width of 450 feet and a depth of 35 feet by 1938. Lift bridges restricted traffic to one way, and after numerous collisions, high fixed spans replaced all but the railroad bridges. But as traffic has leveled off, major future investment other than maintenance is unlikely. The C&D Canal is a scenic waterway listed on the National Register of Historic Places. A canal museum is located in the old pumping station at Chesapeake City, the former coaling depot located at the western end. On weekends in summer, the grassy banks are alive with families enjoying an outdoor barbecue.
The Panama Canal is perhaps the only canal that is marketed as a distinct cruise destination–a sought-after one on many people’s cruise check-list. While most ships make the long-day sail from ocean to ocean, some just climb the Gatun Locks, anchor in Gatun Lake for shoreside excursions, then return to the Caribbean the same way.
The impetus for a canal joining the Atlantic and the Pacific came with the California Gold Rush and the opening of the West. A transit from New York via Cape Horn to San Francisco took a couple of months while a proposed canal would reduce the voyage to a couple of weeks. Actual distance saved for a ship carrying coal from the East Coast to Japan is 3,000 miles and for a banana boat from Ecuador to Europe, 5,000 miles. The French, who were largely responsible for building the Suez Canal, failed after 20 years to dig through the Isthmus of Panama because of disease and financing. It was not until August 15, 1914, with war raging in Europe, that the 50-mile (deep water to deep water) canal was finally completed. For the fascinating story of American imperialism, politics and entrepreneurial know-how, read David McCullough’s The Path Between The Seas (Simon & Schuster).
While the daytime northeast to southwest passage is a hot, sticky affair that lasts between eight and 10 hours, it is well worth staying out ondeck as long as you can to enjoy the multi-faceted experience. The day starts early with ships slotted numerically into a convoy and two Panama Canal Company pilots coming aboard to take control of the ship. Approaching the three-step Gatun Locks, the French channel is evident to the right just after passing Cristobal-Colon. The ship slides into the first 1,000-ft. By 110-ft. lock, aided by “mules” (electric locomotives) that operate over parallel tracks. Some ships such as 1969′s Queen Elizabeth 2 and many of today’s new cruise liners are referred to as Panamax because they just fit the maximum dimensions allowed. Channel depth is maintained at 39.5 feet.
Once completely within the chamber, the rear gate closes and water by gravity flow begins to lift the ship to the level of the next lock. Ships alongside may be moving in the opposite direction and descending the flight, or if the Pacific-bound traffic is particularly heavy, they might be on a parallel course. Once through the third stage, the ship has climbed some 85 feet and the luxuriant rain-forest setting becomes readily evident.
Ships waiting their turn may be anchored in Gatun Lake, a huge water reservoir continually filled, primarily by the Chagres River, and held in place by a one-half-mile dam just off to the right. If making directly for the Pacific, your ship will begin the 23-mile passage through the lake and into the twisting channel to Gamboa, the canal’s headquarters. Here there is likely to be a heavy lift crane tied up, and the tracks of the transcontinental Panama Railroad parallel the waterway. The channel narrows for the passage through Gaillard Cut over the continental divide, with 587-foot Gold Hill on the left and Contractor’s Hill on the right. The latter’s height and once-steep slopes have been considerably reduced to avoid landslides that once plagued this section. Gradually the canal is being widened here to handle two way traffic, but Panamax ships cannot pass here.
The stepping down to the Pacific involves the single Pedro Miguel Lock, then the two-chamber Miraflores Locks, offering a popular viewing stand for visitors. Soon the ship will pass the port of Balboa with high-rise Panama City in the distance, then slide beneath the Bridge of the Americas carrying the Pan-American Highway south from Alaska to its abrupt end in the thick Darien jungle near the border with Colombia.
Clearing the canal and dropping the pilots, there’s a sense of freedom and relief along with fresher, drier air as the ship sails out into the Pacific. For the captain and his officers, it’s time to take back control of their ship.
With treaties signed in 1977 and 1979, the U.S.-owned Canal Zone and Panama Canal were handed over to the Republic of Panama with the final stage taking place on December 31, 1999. Since its opening in 1914, 910,000 ships have passed through, and the highest toll ($226,194.25) was paid by the Coral Princess on September 25, 2003. Panama is planning to hold a national referendum in 2006 regarding a plan to build a third set of locks to measure 1,401 feet by 216.5 feet with a water depth of 60 feet. While the primary reason is to handle the huge new 10,000-unit capacity container ships, the very largest cruise ships, including Carnival’s 200,000-grt “Pinnacle Project,” would also be able to transit, but completion is a good 10 years away. Currently Panama operates at 93 percent of capacity, hence considerable delays occur at peak times for container ships and bulk carriers.
While Panama Canal transits will be readily evident in any Caribbean to Pacific Ocean itinerary, the inclusion of the other canals may be just footnoted. However, each has its own interesting features as well as a friendly reception from those watching from ashore.
Grand Cruise Canals At A Glance
Most canals have been improved expanded over time
but only those with significant rebuilding are
noted as enlarged.
First Locks or
Canal Name Location Completed Length Sea Level
Cape Cod Canal Massachusetts 1914 (A) 7 miles Sea level
Chesapeake & Maryland & 1829 (B) 14 miles Sea level
Delaware Canal Delaware
Corinth Canal Greece 1893 4 miles Sea level
Kiel Canal Northern 1895 (C) 61 miles Locks at
Germany each end
North Sea Netherlands 1876 (D) 5 miles Four locks
Canal (varying
sizes)
Panama Canal Panama 1914 50 miles Six locks
Suez Canal Egypt 1869 100 miles Sea level
(A)--Enlarge for deep-sea ships 1940.
(B)--By 1927 a virtually new sea-level canal:
Enlarged for deep-sea ships in 1938.
(C)--Enlarged by 1914.
(D)--Enlarged several times to present
dimensions by 1930.
COPYRIGHT 2006 World Publishing, Co. (Illinois)
This material is published under license from the publisher through the Gale Group, Farmington Hills, Michigan. All inquiries regarding rights should be directed to the Gale Group.
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The United States may have handed over the Panama Canal, but the Smithsonian is staying to promote tourism.
U.S. COLONEL GEORGE GOETHALS wasn’t thinking about flora and fauna when he ordered the Panama Canal built to retain the maximum amount of surrounding jungle. But the howler monkeys and the hummingbirds–not to mention the scientists and naturalists who flock here to see them–have reason to thank him.
What Goethals had on his mind 90 years ago was security. He thought the scarcely penetrable tropical vegetation was the best protective barrier to keep any enemy troops away from the canal, construction of which was then drawing to a close under his leadership. Missiles and aircraft soon altered the military equation. But the jungle still crowds in as thickly ever, and now it is becoming the axis of a burgeoning environmental tourism strategy.
The ships of the world that chug slowly across the isthmus are passing through one of the richest areas of biodiversity in the world–Panama has more bird species than the United States and Canada combined. When Goethals and his engineers flooded an area the size of Barbados to form Gatun Lake, across which the canal passes for half its length, the species of this area could only flee to mountaintops that soon became islands.
As early as 1923, one of these now isolated hilltops, Barro Colorado Island, was chosen as a site for a biological reserve. The island–which claims more plant species in its 1,500 hectares than exist in all of Europe–became one of the first protected tropical forests in the Americas. For more than 50 years it has been under the care of the Smithsonian, the famous Washington, D.C.-based institution. In 1966, the Smithsonian Tropical Research Institute (STRI) was created in Panama.
So, while U.S. troops have left Panama and the canal itself is in Panamanian hands for the first time, the Smithsonian has stayed. According to Laura Flores, a former deputy foreign trade minister of Panama and now the institute’s director of business initiatives, it is seeking ways to become more involved in supporting the local tourist industry. “This office is a new way of interacting with the community, specifically the eco-tourism business,” she says, including forming new partnerships with tour operators using the Smithsonian’s scientific know-how. “They want quality input into their products. You cannot just show people a forest. You have to tell them what is happening there, add value.”
Mecca for science. The institute’s crown jewel remains Barro Colorado Island, or BCI, which has five species of monkeys, 60 species of bats and some 100 species of cockroaches. The Smithsonian’s tours of the island are restricted and highly prized: Only around 4,000 visitors get to make the guided trip around its jungles every year. “BCI is first of all, and will always be, a research station,” Flores says. “That is the main asset and why people come from all over the world. It is a mecca for science.”
Eco-tourism companies make trips around the island’s 48 kilometers of coastline and across nearby jungle peninsulas. Flores has redesigned the visitors center and is even thinking of offering tourists more opportunities to talk to the expert scientists, who spend weeks at a time studying life on the island. “The visitor program has been increasing,” she says. “We are exploring alternatives for improving access to BCI without disturbing the research that goes on.”
Nearby, private money is already pouring into tourism ventures, all of which have their attraction in the canal’s untouched jungle acres–and which are only now being exploited because the United States has completed its military pullout and left thousands of empty buildings.
Just south of Gatun Lake, for example, the Gamboa Rainforest Resort has opened, incorporating some of the colonial-style buildings that once belonged to the Panama Canal Company. And little pieces of history abound in the lush undergrowth–Manlio Vasquez, the resort’s architect, explains that, swallowed by the nearby jungle, is a former U.S. telegraph station. When President Wilson pressed a button in Washington in 1913, it was here that the telegraph signal was received that detonated a retaining dam and filled the canal with water.
The Smithsonian, lending the obvious prestige of its name, has advised the resort. “We have collaborated with them in putting their frog pond together,” Flores says. “They would not know how to put together that kind of facility.”
Swords into plowshares. One of the most intriguing ventures near the canal is the Canopy Tower. Entrepreneur Raul Arias has transformed an old U.S. radar station, once used to monitor drug flights, into an exclusive lodge. Now it monitors different flights: Its treetop-high geodesic dome makes a perfect observation platform for bird watchers.
Sol Melia, the Spanish hotel chain, is embarking on another swords-into- plowshares venture. It is opening a hotel in what was once the School of the Americas, the notorious army academy that hosted Panama’s own Manuel Noriega and other infamous Latin military leaders. And celebrated architect Frank Gebry–best known for Bilbao’s Guggenheim museum–is drawing up plans to develop Fort Sherman, another former U.S. base at the Caribbean mouth of the canal.
Through all this snakes the canal itself, still Panama’s No. 1 attraction. The Panama Canal Authority’s main visitor center at Miraflores, the first set of canal locks near Panama City, receives 300,000 visitors a year, according to Dilsia Alleyne, supervisor of the authority’s orientation services unit.
Despite its obvious selling points, the canal was never an active participant in the tourism industry. Now that Panama has taken over control from the United States, it will become so for a simple reason: For the first time, it is legally free to make a profit. Under U.S. control, the canal operated on a break-even basis.
So the PCA is preparing to build a larger visitor center at Miraflores. Alleyne’s canal guides are sometimes booked to transit the canal on board some of the 300 cruise ships that make the voyage each year, explaining its wonders to passengers. Once cruise ships passed straight through the canal, now some stop in Gatun Lake, giving tourists the chance of a closer look through various tours. The potential is huge.
As Alleyne says, “We are the only canal in the area. We have some unique things to offer.”
COPYRIGHT 2000 Freedom Magazines, Inc.
COPYRIGHT 2000 Gale Group
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Neither geography nor geology, interesting subjects though they be, were on my mind one hot February afternoon when I boarded Radisson Seven Seas Cruises’ Radisson Diamond. An impending voyage would take us along South America’s Caribbean coast and through the incomparable Panama Canal to rain-forested jungles, but somehow the academic mindset for such a journey just wasn’t there–at least not yet.
After all, it was Carnival time in Aruba. Colorful floats, musicians and costumed dancers snaked through the downtown streets of Oranjestad. And as thousands of plumed and painted revelers whirled by to the beat of whistles and drums, we were too busy vying for camera angles to think about our departure from this island just east of Venezuela. English and Spanish blended with Papiamento, Amba’s hybrid language, on an island where cactus and mesquite grew over miles of arid, desert-like terrain. I gave little thought then to the radical changes in scenery that would unfold over the next eight days–an odyssey through both natural and manmade history that would, in effect, transport us through a few million years of Mother Earth’s existence.
In retrospect, it seems fitting that a ship with a somewhat alien appearance should take us on this diverse and specialized voyage through space and time. One of the few ships offering seven- and eight-day cruises from Aruba to Costa Rica through the Panama Canal, the Radisson Diamond, viewed from the side, looks like a modem, but conventional, cruise ship, resplendent in gleaming white and blue trim with a vertical profile rising nine decks. The radical distinction, however, arises from a bow or stern angle. She is a 420-foot/350-passenger giant catamaran, resting on two narrow hulls. Each has a submerged, computer-controlled fin, which significantly negates the rolling effects of the sea, a feature that would prove its worth later in the cruise. The innovative SWATH (Small Waterplane Area Twin Hull) design, which gives the ship a deep draft of about 25 feet and contributes to a relatively slow speed of 12.5 knots, also provides a wide beam of 103 feet and a lot of open deck space.
Built at Finnyards OY in Rauma, Finland, and launched in 1992, the ship turns heads wherever she goes on her around-the-world itineraries. In November, she repositions from Europe to the Caribbean, and nowhere is she more remarkable. In a land punctuated by colonial history, primitive indigenous natives, untamed jungles, and a canal whose locks afford her a scant three-and-a-half-feet clearance on either side, the Radisson Diamond is unique among all other vessels.
“She was originally built for charters, with luxury and individual attention in mind,” said Harald Bernberger, the ship’s hotel director. “She was also built for stability and for people who are dubious about cruising. At the same time, our mission is to provide high quality and a level of service where just being nice isn’t enough.”
The objective was evident the minute we boarded. A smartly dressed and congenial stewardess, one of 206 officers and crew, showed us to a 193-square-foot balcony stateroom on deck 7. The balcony itself was another 50 square feet and totally private, a feature we would thoroughly enjoy every day in the tropical climate. The large dining room was the next delight. The ship has an open-seating, no-reservation policy for dinner from 7:30 to 9:30 p.m., with a wide assortment of table configurations for whatever mood you might be in, and a highly professional dining-room staff. We never sat at the same table twice, and joined new friends for dinner when we desired. And we were delighted one evening by the alternative restaurant, Don Vito’s Trattoria, where a five-course Italian dinner was punctuated throughout by a spirited performance from the dining-room staff.
The ship’s mission also includes minimal concern for extra costs. There was no charge for Don Vito’s food and entertainment, no charge for staple items such as bottled water, and absolutely no tipping anywhere on the ship. Our cabin stewardess also supplied our stateroom refrigerator and bar with our favorite drinks.
We had spent Saturday night at the Radisson Aruba Resort, and Sunday morning playing golf at Aruba’s desert-by-the-sea Tierra del Sol course, so when Monday morning rolled around, we were just rising and stretching our limbs on the veranda when the ship pulled into Curacao, our first stop. We opted for an animal encounters snorkeling trip rather than shopping and sightseeing in already familiar Willemstad. Later, when the ship slipped down the harbor channel toward the open Caribbean, I felt my first twinge of anticipation. The soft twilight lit the Dutch architecture of the waterfront buildings as we turned west toward Latin America. Cartagena, Colombia’s walled and historic city, lay ahead. But first, a day at sea–and some mind-opening information about where we were going.
Most of the seats in the Constellation Center lecture hall were full for the first of three lectures by Dr. David Pasta, a retired oil industry geophysicist and geologist. A ship’s profile on passengers identifies most as age 45 and up, well-educated and experienced travelers, whose motivation for frequent cruising is based mainly on destination and itinerary. The morning lecture on “plate techtonics” held their attention. It dealt with the formation of the Caribbean and the resulting biodiversity of the Central American region where we were headed–a land where converging geological plates once squeezed together, forming an isthmus with an astounding variety of plant and animal life.
This was, of course, the same isthmus that confronted and frustrated Spanish explorers in the 16th century as they searched for a way around the world to the treasured spices of India and the Orient. But if they had found a way through back then, the city of Cartagena would never have become the main goldshipping city of the Americas, and the second most important commercial city of the 17th century New World (after Mexico City). Penny Zeilman, the shore excursion manager, told us that 97 percent of the Radisson Diamond passengers did the worthwhile city tour of Cartagena, our next port-of-call, so we combined this with our own meandering review of the walled inner city. A central cathedral is surrounded by narrow streets whose colonial buildings and second-story balconies drip flowers and ferns. We wandered through jewelry shops along the congested streets, and detoured from the onslaught of street vendors hawking T-shirts and other souvenirs.
Cartagena is a gem in itself, and certainly a Colombian showcase for tourists, but here on the northern tip of South America we felt poised on a springboard, ready to launch toward what we considered the two main objectives of this cruise–the transit and history of the Panama Canal, and the ecological wonders of Costa Rica. The only passage that still stood between us was a somewhat rough night at sea and the hundreds of tiny atolls known as the San Blas Islands. Attendance in the dining room was noticeably sparse that evening, but the rolling motion of the ship, we were assured by veteran Captain Dag Dvergastein, would have been even less comfortable aboard a mono-hull vessel.
By early morning we were back in calm seas. The San Blas Islands–which appear to pop up like a chain of green, tropical, palm-studded gems salted on a blue sea–spread out before us almost in a straight north-south line. Penny Zeilman had been tentative in her recommendations here. “People come back either loving it or hating it,” she told us. The Kuna Indians have lived in eastern Panama for the past couple of centuries, and about 40,000 of them live today on about 40 of the San Blas Islands. The islands are so tiny, and the bamboo-sided, thatch-roofed dwellings so congested in each commune, that visitors can feel uncomfortably close here.
On the positive side, the Kuna women are known worldwide for their “molas”–brightly colored cotton squares cut, embroidered, and quilted into geometric patterns and designs based on nature and sold as crafts. Designs are elaborate and never exactly the same. The Kunas, who govern themselves independently from the rest of Panama, are generally reticent people. Men, who fish and travel to the mainland for supplies, are rarely seen by daytime tourists. Women, in addition to making and selling molas, adroitly pose themselves or their children for photos in exchange for mandatory modeling fees.
The islands are well within sight of the coastline, and by dawn the following morning the Radisson Diamond was already headed up the dredged approaches to the first three sets of locks of the Panama Canal. We would spend a full day and much of the evening transitting the 50-mile-long canal in one of the highlights of this trip, beginning with an early morning lift in the Gatun Locks and a visit to the Gatun Yacht Club, a remnant of the old Panama Canal Zone. Passengers were tendered to the club, which features folkloric dancers, arts and crafts from three different indigenious Indian groups, plus great views of the lake with ships anchored or in transit.
We also opted for a rain-forest tour, which was part hiking, part riverboat cruise on the Chagres River. It flows from Panama’s high country to the sea, and damming it in the construction of the canal during the early 1900s is what formed Gatun Lake. More Kuna Indian molas were for sale back at the yacht club, but more intriguing were the needlework, brightly dyed fabrics, carvings, baskets, and other products displayed and sold by the Wounaan Indians. They had come from their village many miles distant with Peace Corps volunteer Sue Kozacels of Santa Fe, New Mexico, to be on hand for visiting cruise ships.
Meeting Sue and her friends, along with the dancers and staff of the Gatun Yacht Club, was an unexpected and pleasant addition to our entry into the new world of the Panama Canal, which was formally returned to the government of Panama by the United States in 2000. Onboard the day before, Dr. Pasta had lectured on the canal, from its origins with the French in the 1800s to its geological complexities. And as we headed south-southeast toward Gaillard Cut, the narrow nine-mile channel across the Continental Divide, it became clear why so many lives were lost in so many construction disasters due to landslides. We watched the steep and rugged rock and shale hillsides slip by our balcony, and much later that night the lights of Panama City were clearly visible off our port side as we passed under the Bridge of the Americas and into the Pacific Ocean. While we were glad the cruise line was responsible for the $40,000 toll, the experience was well worth the anticipation.
The next morning, I stepped out onto the balcony and froze, midstretch, in surprise. There before us as we cruised along the coast was a bounding pod of bottle-nosed dolphins. Was this our Costa Rica welcoming committee? It seemed fitting for a country widely known for its wildlife, rain forests, volcanoes, and ecological adventures. On our last night, we had dinner with our lecturer, David Pasta, and his wife, which offered us more enlightenment on this area, as well as a recap of his final talk on biodiversity, volcanoes, and global warming. By now, images of Aruba Carnival revelers had dimmed, and my mind was ready for more natural phenomena.
From Puerto Caldera, where we debarked the Radisson Diamond, we traveled west by car, visiting first a park and then a mountain village where a rodeo and fiesta were in progress, en route to our San Jose hotel–a small, European-style property called the Hotel Le Bergerac, complete with a French restaurant. A full day “Costa Rica Highlights Tour” followed, which included breakfast at a coffee plantation, a trip to the Poas Volcano crater near San Jose, lunch at the Selva Verde Jungle Lodge, and a jungle river trip. Iguanas, monkeys, crocodiles, sloths, and birds were among the many residents of the forest, and our experienced riverboat guide astutely pointed them out. Total cost of our entire two-day stay in Costa Rica, a major highlight of the trip, was less than $450.
Brochure rates for the Radisson Diamond Aruba to Costa Rica cruises through the Panama Canal start at $2,396, per person/ double occupancy. For more information contact your travel agent or Radisson Seven Seas Cruises (Cruise Travel Magazine), 600 Corporate Drive/Suite 410, Fort Lauderdale, FL 33334; or log onto www.rssc.com.
COPYRIGHT 2002 World Publishing, Co. (Illinois)
This material is published under license from the publisher through the Gale Group, Farmington Hills, Michigan. All inquiries regarding rights should be directed to the Gale Group.
From: Cruise Travel | Date: 11/1/2002 | Author: Kerr, Jim
Email us at The Panama Club
+507-836-6542 / 43 (Panama) | 1-(305)-503-9957 (USA)




